Snap Safe
Snap Safe Titan – $1148 Shipped
In a perfect world we all have enough secure storage for all of our guns, and not only do our homes offer us ample space for giant safes, those safes also magically appear with no conspicuous delivery and team of installers. For the real world, there is the bolt together, take apart Snap Safe. It still arrives by truck freight, but the box does not resemble a safe, and you can take the pieces in one by one, inconspicuously, up the stairs, whatever, without advertising your safe to the neighborhood.
My test safe is the smallest model, called the Titan ($1,148 Shipped). As you’ll see in the video, it fits 12 long guns and has some top storage for ammo and handguns, or there is an alternate interior that fits 6 long guns and some smaller storage shelves. All of the Snap Safes are rated at 2300 degrees for one hour, and they are made of 9 gauge steel. You can order either an electronic or mechanical lock, and the door is 3/16ths solid steel, with real bolts holding the safe closed. I don’t see any disadvantage to the Snap Safe as compared to a welded safe, and I would challenge anyone to get into it with a sledge hammer and pry bar.
As of this writing there are now Snap Safes all the way up to 56 long guns ($2,499 Shipped), so no matter the size of your gun accumulation, no matter where you live or what floor you live on, it is now possible for you to own a truly robust and high quality, fire-rated gun safe.
It took me about an hour to put together the Snap Safe Titan you see in the video. As with any push together box, you have to kind of angle the parts together, catch the bolts, then tighten everything up. It’s fairly simple, and the parts are clearly labeled as to direction and location. The safe comes with all of the hardware in a nice plastic box, along with a half inch ratchet and socket to do the actual assembly.
The directions say to assemble the safe laying down, but I had space issues so put it together standing up. Perhaps it would have been easier had I followed the instructions, but it wasn’t hard anyway, so eh. Getting the door back into its drop in hinges was probably the most taxing part of the job, and a second set of hands would have made that a lot easier. I did want to show you that it is pretty easy to do with one person.
It looks to me like the larger sizes of the Snap Safe use the same door, and the same sides. The door panel, back panel, and top and bottom are larger, but the door, the heaviest part, is still the same weight as the one you see here, so it is manageable by one person. To me that is an important distinction, and I’m sure why they designed it like that.
As I took delivery of the Snap Safe and unboxed it, put it together, and tested the function, I asked myself along the way if there was any downside to the design, as opposed to a welded safe. The only thing I could find was the lock mechanism. As you can see in the video, the control pad of the electronic lock pops right off of the front of the safe. There is a spin lock you can get instead, but the dial on the spin lock is also plastic. If someone came at the safe trying to hammer it open, either of the locks will smash handily. Then you are the one who will have to break into your own safe, and I don’t think that will be particularly easy.
Therefore, my best answer is the purchase the safe with the electronic lock, unlike what I said in the video, and when you go away, remove the electronic lock from the front and tuck the cord inside the hole. You could take the handles off of the bolt mechanism too, and let them try to figure out how to get into the box without any external controls.
Other than that, I just can’t find a deal killer on the Snap Safe versus a standard welded safe, regardless of whether you live on the first floor or the fifth. We would all prefer a more discreet delivery option. We all would prefer to not have 4 guys in our homes rolling the safe towards its berth on wooden dowels. And we would all prefer to not have our neighbors see the truck that says Joe’s Lock and Safe delivering the thing to our door. Let them think your safe is a go cart kit for your kids that you never got around to building. I think the Snap Safe is the answer that many of us have been hoping to find for a very long time. I wish I had invented it first.
Thanks for your comments on the Zanotti modular safe.
– How secure is it vs. a safe with welded walls? Think the walls can be broken or breached with a good smack with a heavy hammer or maul?
– What would you change to make the safe better?
I priced insurance for firearms. Cost was over the top, and did not include optics.
They also wanted way too much info on the firearms, pictures, and appraisal.
I went with NRA ArmsCare, until even that went so high that that I went to a fire resistant safe. I went with a Liberty welded unit, but I have a one story house. The idea of build a safe inside a closet is very intriguing, as in order to get to it you would have to cut a safe sized opening (or larger) in the wall, and then tear that out. That is a lot of work…..
“As you can see in the video, the control pad of the electronic lock pops right off of the front of the safe. ”
All e-locks do that. It’s how you change the battery. However you can’t open the safe by putting your own keypad on it, since the keypad is just the buttons, not the mechanism.
I’ve had an e-lock on my safe for ten years and changed the battery twice. It’s never failed, and I can open it in 3 seconds, try that with your dial in the dark.
On the electronic lock:
1. Can the electronic lock cable be “hotwired” with a 9v battery?
2. Can someone with a snap safe grab their electronic keypad, head over to my place, unplug my lock and open the safe with their lock “brain”?
Hopefully the keypad is just that and the real brain with combination lives in memory (that doesn’t need battery) inside the lock mechanism. If not, the dial lock seems essential.
(I hope prices on these drop significantly.)
Everyone should know that all theses safes can be defeated with a battery powered 4 inch grinder and a cutting wheel in a very short time. They are good to keep the kids and casual intruders out but anyone that wants your guns can get them. Make sure to keep your insurance policy!! Mye electronic lock failed internally and the safe company could not supply a backup key so I had to crack it and was surprised at hoe quickly and easily I got in.
Any home safe can be defeated by a determined safe cracker with tools.
But why would I be the target? I’m more worried about the smash and grab druggie who wants to carry out something to pawn.
The next level of security is to never show strangers your safe. Or your collection. Loose lips sink ships.
Zanotti owner here, and very happy with it. Cost twice as much as a similar sized welded one, but worth it the first time you move up or down stairs. To me, one of the main advantages to them isn’t even mentioned; that you can build it inside a closet that a welded safe wouldn’t fit thru the doorway of. Welded safes, that aren’t bolted down, can be picked up fairly easily by one person with a dolly. But a safe in a small closet, that won’t fit thru the doorway, and has less room to manipulate tools on, ups the security a lot.
I just ordered a 31 gun LOCKER from Academy for $417 delivered. Yes, it’s not a SAFE, but it’s a steel locked cabinet that will in fact defeat the casual crack head with a pry bar, not to mention children. I do have a “real” gun safe but it is way overflowing!
Yeah burglars could do this, burglars could do that. But reality is, lions share of burglars are grab ‘n go thugs who will pull off one of your pillow cases and fill it with whatever is handy, valuable, and easily portable. The longer they stick around, the better their chances of ending up in the can and they know it.
Guns locked up in a safe, any large safe, are transformed into something too big and heavy to simply cart off. Not worth it. Figured this out after two burglaries, both times with a gun safe that was never messed with and never lost a gun. They did get my stereo, portable tv, and VCR (it was some time ago).
Love to have a couple of these. They are about double in price from what I think is reasonable.
I too think things are over priced but if you’ll check with your home owners insurance provider, the cost’s of safes are more affordable.
An “upstairs gun safe” is normally limited by the load bearing capacity of the floor no the portability to get it up stairs (thats why beer comes by the case). I’ve moved safes into apartments on a fridge mover hand truck with a fridge box over it and a dummy strap around it.
There is no bad guy entry proof gun safe. All you buy is resistance and time. There are several concerns with this safe. Any seam is a weak point invitiny prying tools and this safe has many though one can be enough. It has external hinges and no locking lugs on that side (or top/bottom). It appears the brains of the electronic lock are in the external pad and the simple 9vdc solenoid resides inside. No need to go more in depth on these, just remember resistance and time.
My last point goes for all safes: If you don’t bolt them in place, your just adding a little more distance to the driveway!
” It has external hinges and no locking lugs on that side (or top/bottom).”
That is correct, but the side with the hinge does have a door flange that moves behind the frame when shut. So, if you’re thinking that simply getting rid of the hinges will have you in, that is not correct.
This lock can be defeated with a 4 inch battery powered grinder in a matter of minutes!( I had to do this on two of mine) I would never have a safe with an electronic lock (which I like) without a key backup. Looks great for ease of installation, nice fire proofing you can see what you get and will keep children out. With the advent of cheap powerful cordless cutters most dafes can easily be defeated so buy insurance!
EVERY discussion about residential gun safes invites self righteous posts about REAL safes and how whatever safe is being reviewed will be breached in minutes by professional burglars with grinders and blow torches. The real world of home usage and gun safes is never a consideration.
First, there are very few professional home burglaries by crews bringing in heavy cutting equipment. Getting burglarized is a remote-unlikely event to begin with. Then, if you are unfortunate enough to get a burglar in your home, the overwhelmingly common entry is a junkie with an 18″ pry bar, razor knife or a screwdriver. These thefts are hit and runs where the thief grabs jewelry and cash and hightails it in under a minute. So, why buy a $4,000 safe to insure $4,000 worth of guns from an event (cutting tool equipped burglary) that is so unlikely to occur? Just up your homeowners insurance if your are storing higher values.
“True” safes are needed for gun stores, banks and jewelers where pro burglars with power tools are gonna target. For a homeowner not advertising his holdings, any halfway decent safe with a home alarm system will protect you. To those who use the thickness of their home safe as a sort of dick measuring device, God bless, but my I’d rather buy a few extra guns with the money.
In many states there is now a criminal liability law for guns that are stolen and that are used in a crime. In some states you have to even lock up ammo, and it is a criminal offense to not.
If a gun is stolen and you can show it was in a locked safe (or more likely show that the safe was breached and guns taken from it) there is no way you could be held liable. You have a responsibility to properly secure your firearms no matter what the law is, and you also should quickly report any stolen firearms to the local police, with serial numbers. Beyond that, it is nothing but fear mongering to suggest that you could be held responsible if you took all possible precautions. Statements suggesting that such a law exists, or that some lawmakers (of whatever party you dislike) are pushing for such laws, are just made to incite anti-anti-gun rhetoric; or to sell safes that to grifhunters point are far beyond the need of the normal gun owner.
Which states are these? Outside of California and the East Coast, I don’t think any states have those kind of laws. Please, correct me if I’m wrong.
True, but most of us like to build stuff or at least snap things together. Having a “kit safe” like this would offer me some fun along with the practical benefits. I just wish it was more complicated to put together! 😎
The thieves are laughing their collective asses off!
There are several videos on YouTube detailing in precise terms on what a theft proof and fire proof safe entails, THIS AIN’T ONE OF THEM!
If you are trying to keep children, adult idiots, and honest people from messing with your guns and/or valuables, this will work fine!
To a professional thief though, this safe is a JOKE!
A pro would be in this safe in 15 minutes OR LESS!
Hey Joe, speaking of nothing to add, why don’t you go pound sand while the rest of us read and use some of Mr. Helinsky’s valuable advice. Why do you feel that you need to chime in? Why don’t you STFU! I would rather read some meaningful comments from real people with real world experience, than some illiterate troll with nothing better to do. It is because of dicks like you that he turns off the comments on the Prepping 101 series.
Sorry Mr. Helinski, but some of us are listening (and reading.)
Thank you!
Mr. A-Hole.
There is a company in Iowa that for a number of years has been making safes that come in pieces and you put together where you want, They are sturdy and easy to put together and take apart to move around or to another location. Fire Rating may not satisfy some folks, but having the knowledge that your valuables are locked away is comforting. Zanotti Armorer.
Zanotti Armor is outstanding. 15 year user. Wasn’t cheap then and prob not cheap now if they’re still in business. Once the door is open, it takes maybe 10 minutes to tap apart- no bolts, screws, etc, only hardened 1/2 inch? steel pins that you tap into place like a door hinge. My door weighs 175 pounds and is the hardest part to get into place when reassembling. Everything else is lighter, although solid as you’d want. Fantastic product.
Zanotti is the answer. Annoying that a “big name” company gets all the attention. I am on Zanotti #3 now (Z3 6′) and have moved four times. Yes they are expensive, and yes they are still in business, and I have met with and talked to Mark Zanotti several times. A solid stand-up American. I love my Zanotti safe(s) and endorse them whole-heartedly. Bottom line: get a safe, even if it isn’t a Zanotti.
There are two things that you did not dwell long enough on. At first in the video it looked like there was only one bolt, but further on in the comments you explained that it was a real safe.
Second, you said it was fire safe, but did not give the rating. The fact that it was bolted together, I would think it was 30 minutes, rather than one hour.
Question, did the price quoted include shipping?
I also felt the price was a bit high compared to other retail safes.
Other than that a very nice video.
Well why don’t you actually read the article, which says those details. If you need help with learning to read we might be able to arrange a tutor or something.
Exactly so.
Just wondering about the possibility of a saw zaw cutting into the side panels and just opening one of these insulated cabinets up like a can opener? I haven’t seen one in person, don’t know what type steel the shell is made of, but just thinking about how safe of safe these things really are…..could it just be sawed open???? Thanks for your time and review!
Of course you could cut any safe with a saw or torch. No home quality safe is going to be more than a delay for someone who brings real tools.
Paul, thanks for the review. That is a sweet alternative to the big dilemma of trying to maneuver a safe up stairs or trying to hoist it to a balcony. Good job on the review. People will always want to crap on your parade even though they usually just sit day after day never doing something, meaning, posting reviews or article to better the knowledge of the liberty seekers.
Zanotti had been making safes for years. It has five large lugs that rotate into the safe wall when you lock it. My husband and I were able to get it assembled by ourselves, although getting the door on almost had one of us sleeping on the couch. It is very heavy and therefore difficult to align with just the two of us.
The point is, any safe is better than no safe for your guns. Legally, you have a defense if someone steals your guns.
Yea the Zanotti safe is gimicky and I don’t see it as a solid alternative to a welded safe.
I think someone breaking into your home and stealing your firearms is a legal defense (no safe required ) . I am not saying I am against safes at all but I know there are folks who cannot afford them and I would surmise that the law “still” perhaps not in Kalifornia protects the innocent from thugs breaking into ones home and stealing their guns .I’m sure the Democrats would love to make a law so they could charge the gun owner and strip them of their 2A rights .
As soon as they join the real world with their prices, I may have to get one. But my Cannon that holds, SUPPOSEDLY 56 rifles was only about $1000. I say supposedly because with FN, HK and AR’s it just won’t happen. I brought it home myself on a small trailer and me and my wife managed to get it to the place I wanted it located. BIG difference cost wise to avoid what the neighbors would think.
Why do the liars always fee the need to show up and lie? The 12 gun lowest grade Cannon is listed on their website as $1049, presumably without shipping. They do not even make a 56 gun model, and the 12 gun, as an apples to apples comparison, weighs 225 lbs., so most likely is thinner gauge steel and/or doesn’t have the bolts holding the door shut all the way around. How many people think we should disable comments entirely? Is there ever any actual benefit?
I can’t say that he’s not fibbing but Tractor Supply Company is selling the Cannon 80 for $999 right now. They say it holds 80 long guns. So a smaller Cannon for a grand is certainly believable.
You are always going to find dumps of inventory when a society is collapsing into a deflationary depression, which we are. You can I’m sure get a safe on Craigslist for free if you look.
Could someone put Hillary in a safe till after the election . Oh wait , the media,the d.o.j.and the fbi already have.
It is interesting to see how the guts of it goes together. The safe I have has the electronic pad just like the one you showed come off, however mine has a long skeleton key I can use so if someone were to destroy it, I could get the key and still be able to open the safe. The separate mechanical one did look a little bit more robust on the internal portion so not sure which would be stronger.
“Finally” is relative. There have been other “safes” that break down on the market for many years including Snap Safe. The difference is that Snap Safe is a cheaper alternative and, if it can be believed, has a much better fire rating. Breaking into it would not be much of a chore if someone smashed or broke the dial (either digital or mechanical). Like other residential security cabinets these are going to keep honest people honest and maybe deter the neighborhood teenage burglars or junkies. It won’t replace real safe or a welded gunsafe made of heavy gauge steal but it does have the advantage of being discreet and the capability of being moved and assembled easily by one person.
I love comments like this (said nobody ever) that are based on nothing and just written to make yourself think that you have something useful to contribute to the world, and you do not. If you smashed the dial you can’t get into the safe, and as I showed with the bolts, even if you were to pry aside a small portion of the wall, the entire door is surrounded by real bolts. Short of a torch, you aren’t getting into that safe to the point where you could get the contents out.
This is just to keep the common burglar away, there are other methods aside from a torch set, to breach a safe. A mid-level grinder with abrasive cutting disks can have the door off of good safes (bolts all around) in 2 minutes and cheap safes in less than a minutes. While a little noisey, they only require household current (battery versions are available), use a .040 thick x 6″ diameter ,Type 1 slicer blade, they are small, lightweight, and cheap. I’m no thief, but a heavy industrial construction guy. We use them daily for demolition of heavy steel in hard to reach areas. I keep the battery version in my truck… for emergencies. Sorry, I’m detail oriented!
I don’t know why someone would think it is new news that you can cut into 9 gauge steel with a torch or grinder cutter??? What do you think people think?
Paul, you seem like a real jerk. Why do you comment, when you have less than nothing to add?
Just turn the comments off man…too many “tools” around here running their pie-holes. For real, just turn them off before some a-hole tells us how a neighbor kid could easily open this safe with a small thermonuclear device because it has too many seams or some other ridiculous crap!