{"id":54359,"date":"2016-03-12T17:20:02","date_gmt":"2016-03-12T22:20:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.gunsamerica.com\/blog\/?p=54359"},"modified":"2016-03-12T17:20:02","modified_gmt":"2023-08-19T12:32:56","slug":"reloading-the-equipment-you-need","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gunsamerica.com\/digest\/reloading-the-equipment-you-need\/","title":{"rendered":"Reloading: The Gear You Need And What It’ll Cost You"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"What

What do you really need to reload your own ammunition? Read on to find out…<\/p><\/div>\n

<\/h2>\n

SERIES<\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n

Part 1:<\/span><\/strong>\u00a0<\/span><\/b><\/span>Want to Reload Your Own Ammo? Basic Questions to Consider<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Part 2:<\/span><\/strong>\u00a0<\/span><\/b><\/span>The Reloading Process<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong>
Part 3:<\/span><\/strong>\u00a0<\/b><\/span>The Gear You\u2019ll Need and What It\u2019ll Cost You<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Part 4:\u00a0Brass Cleaning and Preparation to Load<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Part 5:<\/span><\/strong>\u00a0<\/span><\/b><\/span>Brass Resizing<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Part 6:\u00a0Trimming Cartridge Cases<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Part 7:\u00a0Repriming the Cartridge Case<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Part 8:\u00a0Powder, Propellants, and Pressure<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Part 9:<\/span><\/strong>\u00a0<\/span><\/b><\/span>All About Primers<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Part 10:<\/span><\/strong>\u00a0<\/span><\/b><\/span>Projectiles: Materials, Weights, and Styles<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Part 11:\u00a0<\/span><\/span>Seating and Crimping Bullets<\/span><\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Part 12: To Crimp or not to Crimp<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

Part 13: Final Inspection and Packaging Tips<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

There is such a fine line between needs and wants. It\u2019s oh so easy to consider something that\u2019s really a “want” as a “need.” You know, like bacon is technically a \u201cwant.\u201d Hang on, upon further reflection that is, in fact, a need. But you get the idea.<\/p>\n

The first question prospective reloaders always ask me is, \u201cHow much will it cost me to get started?\u201d The problem with that question is that it depends. It depends on whether you want to reload for rifle, pistol, or both. It depends on the number of calibers you want to reload. But more than anything, it depends on your personal definitions of needs and wants.<\/p>\n

The list of stuff you truly need is actually pretty modest. When I say need, let\u2019s consider the extreme and rule out gear that simply makes the job easier or faster. Those things are \u201cwants\u201d and you can always add that stuff later. Here, I\u2019ll use this criterion to define gear you need: If you can\u2019t SAFELY reload a cartridge without it, then it\u2019s a need.<\/p>\n

So here\u2019s the list of gear you need to safely reload pistol ammunition. At the end, I\u2019ll mention what you need to add if you want to reload bottleneck rifle cartridges. We\u2019ll address the benefits of those pieces of \u201cwant\u201d gear in a later article in this series.<\/p>\n

Cartridge Case Cleaner<\/h2>\n

When you pick up fired brass cartridge cases, they’ll be dirty. Depending on whether you shoot at an indoor or outdoor range, the relative level of “dirt” will vary. At a minimum, you’ll want to remove any loose powder residue and whatever dirt your brass acquired when it hit the floor. While your brass does not have to be shiny like new, it does need to have the loose dirt removed. That\u2019s because the brass needs to work smoothly with your reloading dies, and when finished, it needs to reliably load into your gun. If brass is covered with sand and Twinkies filling, you\u2019re going to mess up your dies and run into reliability problems later.<\/p>\n

If you want to stick to basic needs, you can clean your brass with stuff you already have. Hot water, a plastic container and some Tide (or a mixture of dish detergent, vinegar, and salt) will get the job done. Throw the dirty brass in there, shake the snot out of it, rinse, and dump on a towel for a day or so to dry. It won\u2019t look pretty, but you\u2019ll achieve the goal of removing loose dirt.<\/p>\n

\"Sooner

Sooner or later, you’ll want a tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner, but you don’t need either right away.<\/p><\/div>\n

Your brass won’t be all pretty and shiny, but it will be clean enough to reload. To me, this is a hassle that’s not worth saving sixty to eighty dollars on a brass cleaner. These come in various types including ultrasonic cleaners, dry tumblers, and wet tumblers. Since a cleaning machine is a \u201cwant\u201d we\u2019ll get into those in much more detail later in the series.<\/p>\n

Cost: $0 dollars<\/strong>. Since we\u2019re being hardcore about wants and needs, we\u2019ll assume you can start with a bucket or other container and acquire a fancy case cleaner down the road.<\/p>\n

Reloading Press<\/h2>\n

This component is a need, although you can get started with a very simple and inexpensive single-stage (or even hand operated) reloading press.<\/p>\n

Think of a reloading press like one of those old Play-Doh factories. You know, the ones where you dump Play-Doh in a hopper and press a big lever, so it comes out like star-shaped spaghetti. Like the Play-Doh factory, a reloading press is just a device that uses mechanical advantage to squish things together.<\/p>\n

\"A

A well-used Lyman single-stage reloading press.<\/p><\/div>\n

You can do these things with a reloading press:<\/p>\n

    \n
  • Press a brass case against a decapping pin to push out the old primer.<\/li>\n
  • Press a casing into a resizing die that jams the brass back into its original dimensions.<\/li>\n
  • Press a new primer into the now empty primer pocket.<\/li>\n
  • Press the casing against an expanding die that opens the mouth just a tad so you can insert a new bullet.<\/li>\n
  • Press the bullet down into the casing.<\/li>\n
  • Crimp the casing around the bullet to remove the bell from the expansion step.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    What type of reloading press do you need to get started? I always recommend starting with a single stage press. Single stage means the press does one thing at a time. Using a single stage press, you’ll load in batches. For example, you’ll resize all your cases, then prime them all, then add powder, then seat the bullet and finally crimp all of the cases. While it\u2019s more tedious, a single stage press is simple to learn, forgiving, and most important for this discussion, inexpensive.<\/p>\n

    Cost: $150.<\/strong> These range higher and lower in price, but you can buy a good that will last you 115% of forever for this price.<\/p>\n

    Die Set<\/h2>\n

    Reloading dies are simply cylinders made of steel that are used like \u201cinserts\u201d with your reloading press. Following from the previous example, they\u2019re kind of like those yellow plastic cutouts for the Play-Doh Factory. As the interior of a reloading die is cut specifically to match the shape of the type of cartridge, you need a set of dies for each caliber you wish to reload.<\/p>\n

    The reloading dies screw into the reloading press. The press is then used to jam the cartridge case into the reloading die to perform the specific function of that die. For example, there are three types of dies in most pistol caliber reloading die sets.<\/p>\n

    \"Many

    Many rifle die sets like this .257 Weatherby Magnum kit contain just two dies.<\/p><\/div>\n

    Decapping and Resizing Die<\/h3>\n

    This die does two things in one step. A steel rod right in the center goes through the open mouth of your cartridge brass and pushes out the old blown up primer.\u00a0The die itself is shaped exactly like the outside of your cartridge brass, and the diameter of the die hole is the exact dimension specified for that caliber cartridge diameter. It \u201cpushes\u201d the brass cartridge back to the proper diameter so it will easily fit in the chamber of your gun.<\/p>\n

    Expanding Die<\/h3>\n

    The resizing die reshapes the whole cartridge case back into a proper sized tube. But wait! We\u2019re going to have to stick a new bullet in there at some point, right? Will it fit? That\u2019s where the expanding die steps in. This one simply opens the very end of the mouth of the cartridge case so you can fit a new bullet in there.<\/p>\n

    Seating and Crimping Die<\/h3>\n

    This is another die that accomplishes two tasks. First, it pushes the bullet down into the case to the proper depth, based on how you adjust it. At the same time, it presses the case mouth inwards to remove the mouth expansion created during the expansion step. Some pistol die sets, like Lee Deluxe Pistol Die Sets, have four dies. These simply separate the seating and crimping functions into two separate dies. Treating seating and crimping as separate operations can be a little more forgiving.<\/p>\n

    You’ll need a set of dies for each caliber you wish to reload. You’ll also need a shell holder for each caliber. A shell holder is a small insert for your reloading press. It slips onto the top of the piston of your reloading press and grips the rim of your cartridge case \u2014 holding it snug while you jam the case into the reloading dies. Some die sets include a shell holder, and some do not, so be sure to check and order it separately if needed. You\u2019ll also need a shell holder for each caliber you want to reload.<\/p>\n

    Cost: $50.<\/strong> Like anything, the cost of die sets varies, but you should have no trouble finding good pistol caliber dies for less than $50.<\/p>\n

    Powder Scale<\/h2>\n

    A scale is an absolute necessity in my view. Charging cartridges with either too little or too much powder is dangerous! Recipes for reloading use weight measurements for the amount of powder required. Powder is measured in units of grains, which is \u00a01\/7,000th of a pound – it doesn\u2019t mean individual kernels of powder. While some basic reloading kits provide scoops of different sizes to measure powder, this method will always be less precise than weighed measures. Sermon over – get a scale right when you start.<\/p>\n

    Powder scales come in two different types: beam and electronic. Traditional beam scales never need batteries and always work. Electronic scales are becoming more affordable and are pretty darn reliable too provided you keep the batteries fresh. I\u2019ve seen them get wiggy as the batteries start to drain.<\/p>\n

    \"You

    You need a powder scale and both beam and electronic ones work fine.<\/p><\/div>\n

    Cost: $75.<\/strong> Scale prices go from $30 to $300 depending on how precise you want to get. You can get a decent beam scale in the $60 to $90 range. Some of the newer electronic scales dip down to $30 or so, but there seem to be a broad variety of good ones in the $125 range.<\/p>\n

    Calipers<\/h2>\n

    While not included in most starter kits, I think calipers are a must-have item. Available in analog dial or digital, a caliper accurately measures things.<\/p>\n

    The most important measurement you’ll need to worry about is the overall cartridge length. It’s critical to make sure that your bullets are seated deep enough to feed reliably, but not so much that you reduce interior case volume and risk dangerous over pressure. A reloading manual will tell you exactly how deep to seat each caliber and specific bullet type.<\/p>\n

    \"Analog

    Analog (top) and digital (bottom) calipers for measuring stuff precisely.<\/p><\/div>\n

    Calipers are also handy for checking the diameter of your cases, but generally, your dies will ensure that cases are sized to the right width.<\/p>\n

    If you are going to reload bottleneck rifle cartridges, you\u2019ll also need calipers to make sure that your resized cases are the proper length before you start to seat bullets. They tend to stretch a bit when you fire and resize them.<\/p>\n

    Cost: $40.<\/strong> You can get either digital or analog (dial readout) calipers in this price range, and the quality of those is plenty good enough to get you going safely.<\/p>\n

    Reloading Manual<\/h2>\n

    Do not reload ammunition, ever, without a reloading manual. Think of this as the cookbook full of recipes for each caliber, powder type, primer type and bullet type and weight. Reloading component and equipment companies like Hornady, Lyman, Speer, Barnes, Nosler, Sierra and Lee all publish books with detailed recipe information. Always, always, always stick to published guidelines for your reloads!<\/p>\n

    \"Even

    Even though reloading recipes from reputable companies are available online, a book will really help you as it contains lots of additional information.<\/p><\/div>\n

    You can get reloading recipes online, but if you do, stick to data published by the companies that make the bullets or powder. Don\u2019t assume that some recipe from Billy Bob\u2019s Blast \u2018Em Up Forum is safe.<\/p>\n

    Cost: $25.<\/strong><\/p>\n

    Rifle Cartridges: Case Trimmer<\/h2>\n

    When you resize rifle cartridge brass, it will stretch a little each time you reload it. So you’ll need to invest in a simple device that trims excess brass from the mouth of the case.<\/p>\n

    \"A

    A hand-operated case trimmer like this Forster model will get you started with bottleneck rifle cartridges.<\/p><\/div>\n

    The idea for almost all types of case trimmers is simple. It\u2019s a lathe-type tool, either hand-operated or electric. You fasten the brass cartridge case on the rim end, and a rotating blade trims off the excess brass from the open neck of the cartridge.<\/p>\n

    Cost: $100.<\/strong> Hand operated case trimmers start at $50 or so and escalate to three figures. The variety of electric and single-caliber trimming tools is too much to cover here, so we\u2019ll stick to the hand-operated model. Besides, like a single-stage reloading press, you\u2019ll use a good manual case trimmer forever.<\/p>\n

    So there you have it. If I\u2019ve done my math right, we\u2019re looking at about $340 in basic equipment to get started with pistol caliber reloading. Add a hundred if you want to do rifle calibers. Here\u2019s the good news. Companies like Hornady, Lyman, RCBS, and Lee offer reloading starter kits which include different combinations of the gear we\u2019ve talked about here. These starter kits are priced at a substantial discount over what you would pay separately. Kits range from about $150 to $450 or so and vary dramatically in terms of what\u2019s included. Most of them offer more than the most basic \u201cneeds\u201d list we\u2019ve discussed here, so you\u2019re getting some of those future \u201cwants\u201d right up front as part of the package.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    The first question prospective reloaders always ask me is, \u201cHow much will it cost me to get started?\u201d The problem with that question is that it depends. It depends on whether you want to reload for rifle, pistol, or both. It depends on the number of calibers you want to reload. But more than anything, it depends on your personal definitions of needs and wants.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":25,"featured_media":54443,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_specdata_upc":"","_specdata_placement":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[7,234,888,256,113,95,209],"tags":[132,102,616,618,757],"featured":[],"hunt365":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-54359","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-gunsamerica-authors","8":"category-columns","9":"category-columns-ga-guides","10":"category-getting-started","11":"category-gear-reloading","12":"category-ga-guides-reloading","13":"category-tom-mchale","14":"tag-buzz","15":"tag-feature-articles","16":"tag-gear","17":"tag-reloading","18":"tag-reloading-guide"},"yoast_head":"\nReloading: The Gear You Need And What It'll Cost You<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Reloading: The Gear You Need And What It'll Cost You -\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gunsamerica.com\/digest\/reloading-the-equipment-you-need\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Reloading: The Gear You Need And What It'll Cost You\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The first question prospective reloaders always ask me is, \u201cHow much will it cost me to get started?\u201d The problem with that question is that it depends. 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It depends on whether you want to reload for rifle, pistol, or both. It depends on the number of calibers you want to reload. 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