{"id":21223,"date":"2014-07-02T14:55:59","date_gmt":"2014-07-02T18:55:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.gunsamerica.com\/blog\/?p=21223"},"modified":"2014-07-02T14:55:59","modified_gmt":"2023-08-17T17:24:17","slug":"diy-slick-ruger-single-action","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gunsamerica.com\/digest\/diy-slick-ruger-single-action\/","title":{"rendered":"DIY: Slick Up a Ruger Single Action"},"content":{"rendered":"

[one_half padding=”0 0 0 0px”]<\/p>\n

<\/h2>\n

Ruger Single Actions<\/a><\/h2>\n

[\/one_half]<\/p>\n

[one_half_last padding=”0 0 0 0px”]<\/p>\n\n

Ruger Single Actions<\/h2>\n

\" target=\"_blank\" class=\"clickTracking\">\"Buy<\/a>\n

[\/one_half_last]<\/p>\n

Ruger single action revolvers, Blackhawks and Vaqueros, are usually pretty nice out of the box.\u00a0 But what if you want to take it to the net level?\u00a0 I\u2019m talking about a smooth hammer cock and a clean trigger pull. You can send your pistol off to the gunsmith and have it slicked up, or you can do it yourself.\u00a0 This is a DIY on how to go about this.\u00a0 It\u2019s not all that hard and is a great learning experience.<\/p>\n

\"Ruger<\/a>

Working on a matched pair is twice the fun.<\/p><\/div>\n

There are two reasons to clean up an action.\u00a0 First it makes for a more pleasant and accurate revolver. A clean trigger that breaks around 3.5-4 pounds is a pleasure to shoot and it helps cut down on your trigger finger pulling the gun off target.\u00a0 The other reason is for reliability.\u00a0 We are going to slick up some parts and cut down on the chance they could bind and cause a malfunction. It is also important that we are doing this to a safe and functional gun.\u00a0 Nothing in this article is going to tell you how to fix a problem.\u00a0 We are simply trying to make it work better.\u00a0 Ruger has great support.\u00a0 If your revolver has a timing issue or other problems, call Ruger.\u00a0 They will almost always make it right, assuming you didn\u2019t mess it up with some Bubba gunsmithing.<\/p>\n

First off let\u2019s get a disclaimer out of the way.\u00a0 This article will show you what parts to smooth and polish and talk about a couple of techniques to accomplish this.\u00a0 However, you can screw up your gun doing this if you are too aggressive and remove too much metal.\u00a0 If you do mess something up it\u2019s not the end of the world.\u00a0 Most of the parts are available straight from Ruger.\u00a0 Brownell\u2019s, Midway and the like also carry the innards for these Rugers. But learning from your mistakes and how to fix them is all part of the DIY thing. So proceed at your own risk, have fun, and learn how these revolvers tick.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>

A good workspace will help keep things organized.<\/p><\/div>\n

The following tips, tricks and whatnot apply to New Model Blackhawks and The Vaqueros.\u00a0 This is not for the Old Model Blackhawk, aka 3 screw actions.<\/p>\n

You are going to need some tools for doing this. Here is what I use
\nFine and medium grit Eze-Lap Stones
\nArkansas Whetstones
\n6 inch smooth file
\nSmall needle files
\nEmery Cloth in 250-600 grit
\nPlus the screw driver and bits to take the gun apart<\/p>\n

[one_half]Before we get started I want to talk about the \u201cpoor man\u2019s\u201d action job.\u00a0 If you are not familiar with this method it is very simple and does actually help.\u00a0 The idea is to take one of the legs of the hammer return spring off of its post so that the spring weight is reduced.\u00a0 This does make for a lighter trigger.\u00a0 But take a look at the pictures and see what you think about that leg of the spring just hanging there.\u00a0 It looks to me that it could get hung up in the main spring or slow the main spring down which could result in a failure to fire. That alone makes this a poor trick for an action job.\u00a0 We want to increase reliability, not make it worse.[\/one_half]<\/p>\n

[one_half_last]<\/p>\n

\"<\/a>

Knock one spring loose and it lighten the trigger pull, but this isn’t recommended for a reliable gun.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half_last]<\/h2>\n

Now lets get started!<\/h2>\n

First take the revolver apart.\u00a0 There isn\u2019t room in this article to do a step by step on how to do this.\u00a0 Plus if you don\u2019t already know, or can\u2019t figure it out, this is probably not something you should be trying to do anyways.\u00a0 These are pretty simple actions.\u00a0 Not as simple as an old Colt Peacemaker, but not a double action Smith either.
\nYou can pretty much do these steps in any order.\u00a0 I have tried to put it in an order to help show how the parts interact with each other. I will be using Rugers terminology for the parts.<\/p>\n

[one_half]<\/p>\n

The Hammer Strut and Mainspring seat<\/h2>\n

On the hammer strut polish the ball end where it sets in the back of the hammer. This will help with the feel and smoothness when you cock the revolver. Also check the sides of the strut where the mainspring and the seat run up and down.\u00a0 The example was pretty slick but I have seen some that have burs that could cause the seat or spring to bind.\u00a0 And check the insides of the seat for burs.\u00a0 This one had a pretty bad sharp lip\/edge inside.\u00a0 I filed it down with a small file then smoothed it with Emory cloth backed by the same file.\u00a0 This is all done for reliability.\u00a0 Speaking of backing the emory cloth with a file, always back it with something hard and flat.\u00a0 Using your fingers will just dish out the metal.<\/p>\n

[\/one_half]<\/p>\n

[one_half_last]<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The hammer strut and mainspring.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half_last]<\/p>\n

[one_half]<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The mainspring seat. Notice the sharp edge inside.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half]<\/p>\n

[one_half_last]<\/p>\n

\"Smoothing<\/a>

Smoothing out the sharp edge is a must.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half_last]<\/p>\n

[one_half]<\/p>\n

Hammer<\/h2>\n

We need to polish where the hammer strut rides on the back of the hammer.\u00a0 This is probably the hardest part to get to.\u00a0 The best way I have found to do it is with rolled up emery cloth.\u00a0 I roll it to be a tight fit in the hole then use a drill to spin the cloth.\u00a0 This is the only time I use a power tool with working on these guns.\u00a0 Drimel polishing wheels are great, but when working on firearms that are really hard to keep things square.\u00a0 That will be important later. [\/one_half]<\/p>\n

[one_half_last]<\/p>\n

\"Ruger<\/a>

Emery cloth on a drill bit works well, but go slow.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half_last]<\/p>\n

Pawl<\/h2>\n

The pawl is the part that rotates the cylinder.\u00a0 There isn\u2019t much to do to this part.\u00a0 If you start sanding on the \u201cteeth\u201d, where they engage the cylinder, you can mess up the timing.\u00a0 I usually leave those alone.\u00a0 What you can do is smooth out the area on the back that the pawl plunger glides on. You can really see the area in these pictures in the grime that was on this pistol. This one was pretty bad.\u00a0 I used a smooth file then sanded to 600. While you are at it polish up the plunger itself.<\/p>\n

[one_half]<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The back of the pawl. Note where the plunger slides.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half]<\/p>\n

[one_half_last]<\/p>\n

\"Slick<\/a>

Slick it up good.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half_last]<\/p>\n

[one_half]<\/p>\n

Loading Gate and Spring<\/h2>\n

This Vaquero has a very smooth and tight gate.\u00a0 I didn\u2019t change anything on this one but if yours has a overly tight or gritty feeling gate you can smooth the area the spring rests on and the spring itself.\u00a0 If it is really really bad you can bend the spring down.\u00a0 But down over do it!\u00a0 You want the loading gate to stay closed during recoil.\u00a0 When the gate is open you can\u2019t cock the hammer and fire the gun.\u00a0 Making the gate too lose hurts the reliability goal.<\/p>\n

[\/one_half]<\/p>\n

[one_half_last]<\/p>\n

\"Ruger<\/a>

This show where the spring meets the gate. Polish it up if it is too stiff.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half_last]<\/p>\n

Cyinder latch<\/h2>\n

This is sometimes called the bolt.\u00a0 There are a couple of areas we want to look at.\u00a0 First is the bottom.\u00a0 There is a plunger that rides on this.\u00a0 It is a flat area so its just as easy to slick the whole thing up.\u00a0 This is also a good part to see the lines from where it was cut with an EDM.\u00a0 Lap it with the stones then follow it with 600 grit paper.
\nNow check the actual latch part, the area that engages the cylinder.\u00a0 Knocking off any burrs or rough edges will help keep it from marking up the cylinder.\u00a0 Don\u2019t take too much off or you can cause the cylinder to have some slop when the hammer is back and it is locked up.\u00a0 That is not good and can affect accuracy.<\/p>\n

The last place to look at is where the hammer plunger rides.\u00a0 There is usually a mark from where it has come in contact on a gun that has been fired or cycled a few time.\u00a0 Smooth that up.\u00a0 Stones work really well here.<\/p>\n

[one_half]<\/p>\n

\"This<\/a>

This is the cylinder latch. The rounded off edges engage the cylinder.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half]<\/p>\n

[one_half_last]<\/p>\n

\"This<\/a>

This is where the hammer plunger rides.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half_last]<\/p>\n

[one_half]<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The rough lines are from the machining. These need to go.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half]<\/p>\n

[one_half_last]<\/p>\n

\"Slick<\/a>

Slick it up good.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half_last]<\/p>\n

[one_half]<\/p>\n

The Trigger<\/h2>\n

The first place we want to look at is where the trigger return spring rides.\u00a0 On most of the Rugers I have worked on this is the part that is usually the roughest.\u00a0 This trigger is no exception.\u00a0 It might be hard to see but there is a bur or lip of thin metal that sticks up right on the edge.\u00a0 That is biting into the string that rests there and causing an extra pound or so of trigger pull.\u00a0 I filed this down flat with a 6 inch smooth file, then starting smoothing it out with the Eze-laps and polishing up to 600 grit paper.
\nNow we get to the first place that you really have to be careful with.\u00a0 This is the part that engages the sear on the hammer.\u00a0 We want to polish this up nice and smooth.\u00a0 But we don\u2019t want to change any angles.\u00a0 Go slow and start with a fine stone.\u00a0 Look for any machine marks and smooth those out but keep everything nice and sharp.[\/one_half]<\/p>\n

[one_half_last]<\/p>\n

\"Smooth<\/a>

Smooth down where the hammer return spring sets. This one is rough.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half_last]<\/p>\n

[one_half]<\/p>\n

\"Edge<\/a>

Edge filed off, still needs polish.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half]<\/p>\n

[one_half_last]<\/p>\n

\"Smooth<\/a>

Smooth the two faces that engage the sear, but keep it all square.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half_last]<\/p>\n

Back to the hammer<\/h2>\n

First take a look at the hammer plunger.\u00a0 This is what pushes on the cylinder latch.\u00a0 You will probably need to remove it with a small punch.\u00a0 Smooth it and break what is usually a sharp edge on the front of it.
\nNow the other place that we have to be careful with, the sear area.\u00a0 Once again we don\u2019t want to change this, just smooth it up.\u00a0 Changing the angle on the sear, or how deep the surface is that rests on the hammer, is a bit tricky.\u00a0 This is the easiest part to screw up.\u00a0 I\u2019m not going to get into changing the sear angle or engagement in this article.\u00a0 Doing this wrong can make the revolver unsafe.\u00a0 If the sear seat is not deep enough the gun could fire when cocked if it is pumped or jarred.\u00a0 Now that I have scared you, take your time and polish up the area to the front of the sear.\u00a0 Like with the hammer, go slow and start with a fine stone or paper.\u00a0 If it takes a little longer that\u2019s ok, it\u2019s better than taking too much off too quick.<\/p>\n

[one_half]<\/p>\n

\"Even<\/a>

Even the sear face needs polish.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half]<\/p>\n

[one_half_last]<\/p>\n

\"All<\/a>

All slicked up.<\/p><\/div>\n

[\/one_half_last]<\/p>\n

Receiver<\/h2>\n

This one was good already.\u00a0 Check the channels where the transfer bar and the pawl run.\u00a0 Sometimes there is a goober or two of metal that is left over from the casting.\u00a0 You want to remove any of those.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The final trigger pull on both of these is close to three pounds.<\/p><\/div>\n

It can be a little hard to get in there but a needle file will work.\u00a0 Smooth out the file marks with emery cloth backed with the same file. The idea here is to get rid of anything that could potentially bind up the action.[\/one_half]<\/p>\n

Put it back together<\/h2>\n

Give everything a light coating of oil and reassemble.\u00a0 If we did everything right you should have a noticeably smoother revolver.\u00a0 If your trigger pull is still a little hard, as in over 5 pounds, you can try a reduced power trigger return spring.\u00a0 Wolf makes a good one.\u00a0 That is the only spring I would change out.\u00a0 They do make a reduced power main spring that does make the cocking a bit easier.\u00a0 But this comes with the cost of not hitting the firing pin and primer as hard.\u00a0 I had rather have the hammer be a little heavier to cock than to have a misfire from a light strike.\u00a0 Remember we are trying to improve the feel AND increase the reliability.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ruger makes great revolvers. There single actions are affordable, durable, and accurate. Yet even a good revolver may need a bit of a nudge to make it great. So take it apart and slick it up. Take out the creep. Lighten the pull. It isn’t all that complicated.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":26,"featured_media":21241,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_specdata_upc":"","_specdata_placement":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[6,88,10],"tags":[132,107],"featured":[],"hunt365":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-21223","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-competition","8":"category-sam-trisler","9":"category-shootbetter","10":"tag-buzz","11":"tag-featured-articles"},"yoast_head":"\nDIY: Slick Up a Ruger Single Action<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Ever wondered what it would take to break down a single action Ruger and really make the trigger sing? Here's the DIY answer, step by step.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gunsamerica.com\/digest\/diy-slick-ruger-single-action\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"DIY: Slick Up a Ruger Single Action\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Ruger makes great revolvers. There single actions are affordable, durable, and accurate. Yet even a good revolver may need a bit of a nudge to make it great. So take it apart and slick it up. Take out the creep. Lighten the pull. It isn't all that complicated.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/gunsamerica.com\/digest\/diy-slick-ruger-single-action\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Gun Reviews and News | GunsAmerica.com\/Digest\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/gunsamerica\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2014-07-02T18:55:59+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2023-08-17T17:24:17+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/gunsamerica.com\/digest\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/Ruger-Slick-18.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1200\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"800\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Sam Trisler\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@gunsamerica\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@gunsamerica\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Sam Trisler\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"12 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/diy-slick-ruger-single-action\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/diy-slick-ruger-single-action\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Sam Trisler\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/735f2295e4807aa740df88f0046f9dd2\"},\"headline\":\"DIY: Slick Up a Ruger Single Action\",\"datePublished\":\"2014-07-02T18:55:59+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2023-08-17T17:24:17+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/diy-slick-ruger-single-action\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":2353,\"commentCount\":9,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/diy-slick-ruger-single-action\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2014\\\/07\\\/Ruger-Slick-18.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"Buzz\",\"Featured Articles\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Competition\",\"Sam Trisler\",\"Shoot Better\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/diy-slick-ruger-single-action\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/diy-slick-ruger-single-action\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/diy-slick-ruger-single-action\\\/\",\"name\":\"DIY: Slick Up a Ruger Single Action\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/diy-slick-ruger-single-action\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/diy-slick-ruger-single-action\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/gunsamerica.com\\\/digest\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2014\\\/07\\\/Ruger-Slick-18.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2014-07-02T18:55:59+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2023-08-17T17:24:17+00:00\",\"description\":\"Ever wondered what it would take to break down a single action Ruger and really make the trigger sing? 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