{"id":146138,"date":"2021-06-05T18:56:11","date_gmt":"2021-06-05T22:56:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.gunsamerica.com\/digest\/?p=146138"},"modified":"2021-06-05T18:56:11","modified_gmt":"2023-09-07T12:44:19","slug":"a-way-to-color-case-harden-at-home","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gunsamerica.com\/digest\/a-way-to-color-case-harden-at-home\/","title":{"rendered":"A Way To “Color Case Harden” At Home"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
Here’s where I left off with this project, and where I’m starting for this segment.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Some time ago, I wrote an article<\/a> about completing a black powder revolver kit from Dixie Gun Works. Upon completion, the frame still needed to be refinished as it was just bare steel. I mentioned that I hadn\u2019t yet decided on what finish to use on the frame, but wanted something that at least looked like color case hardening, as this is the finish the original Colts had. A reader suggested Steel FX patinas, as they have a finish that gives the appearance of color case hardening without actually having to heat treat the steel. So, I looked into it and decided to give it a try.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The problem for the average home builder with color case hardening is that it requires some expensive equipment and some special skills. In a nutshell, color case hardening is basically carburizing (adding carbon to the surface of the steel) and hardening steel. Case hardening was used into the 1900s for parts such as revolver frames and receivers, and the \u201ccoloring\u201d was a byproduct of this process. These days color case hardening is primarily done for aesthetic reasons, such as recreating the original finish on older firearms (though I have seen some more modern firearms refinished in this manner as well). Obviously, most homebuilders do not have the capability to heat treat steel in their garage. This method gives a similar appearance, and you only need polishing materials, the Liquid Patina<\/a>, and the Renaissance Wax<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The revolver’s frame needed to be completely disassembled for refinishing.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The first step is to completely disassemble the frame or whatever parts you’re working on. If you built a revolver from a kit like this one, then you should be familiar with this process. Then, you need to polish the frame or parts you want to finish. If you\u2019re working on a \u201ckit\u201d revolver like this one, you might have already done a chunk of this when you did the clean-up work on the frame. But I\u2019m going to go over the polishing process some anyway, just in case you didn\u2019t or are using this process on some other project.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Almost ready to begin using the 2 part liquid patina. You can see the remaining surface defects, yet to be removed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

You need to have all of the major defects or extra material removed (in the case of this kit revolver). Use a file for this. Obviously, the more substantial the work needed, the coarser the file you should use, going finer as you go. Then once you have the file work done, it\u2019s time to polish the surface with an abrasive cloth. It is important to remember that paper-backed abrasive is for wood, and \u201ccloth\u201d backed is for metal. Use something as a backer whenever you\u2019re using abrasive cloth (unless it\u2019s a truly round surface that you can use the \u201cshoeshine\u201d method on), to prevent rounding off corners or other features. I use a file for flat surfaces (wrapping the paper around the file). For other surfaces, I cut a piece off and wrap it around a rubber eraser. I keep it in place with a push pin. Whatever you use, tear or cut the cloth so that it doesn\u2019t hang over the edge so that you keep better control.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Use of a backer, such as this eraser, will prevent “rounding off” corners or other features.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
The frame is polished and ready for the liquid patina.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I polished the surfaces to a 400 grit finish. You start with a coarser grit cloth. If it\u2019s a filed surface, I typically start with something like 80 or 120 grit. Then once you have the surface polished to that grit go to the next finer and so on, polishing the polish marks out from the previous grit. When you change grits, polish in a different direction as this makes the polish marks stand out (making them easier to polish out), particularly as you get to the finer grits. You will be tempted to overlook some small flaws (polishing is rather tedious), but don\u2019t. The finishing work won\u2019t hide surface imperfections, actually making them stand out instead. After you\u2019re done polishing, clean all of the leftover abrasive off. And then you need to completely degrease the frame prior to applying the chemicals. Avoid handling your parts with your bare hands from here on out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Applying the surface activator. I found the use of a q-tip helps get the liquid actually on the edges.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
After the first complete application. You can see how the surface tension of the liquid keeps it away from the edges.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Next is the actual metal coloring process. Applying the liquid patina is a two-step process. You apply the Surface Activator, and then the Gunsmith Special itself. The Gunsmith Special will only react with the surfaces that have the activator on them-meaning the surface has to actually be wet with the applicator. I found this actually helps you keep control of what specific area you want to work on. Then you let the chemical sit on it until it is the color you want. Then wash it off, and blow it off with compressed air to completely dry it. I found that it\u2019s best to do smaller areas at a time, as it\u2019s easier to control how it all looks. I also found that the surface tension of the liquid tended to keep it away from the edges, so it took a couple of tries to get everything colored with no bare spots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

With the coloring done to my liking, it was time for the Renaissance Wax.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Now that everything is the color you want, it\u2019s time to apply a protective coat. I chose Renaissance Wax, as it\u2019s what SteelFX recommended when I called them, though they mention in the directions that other clear coats could be used. You apply the wax in thin coats and polish it with a clean rag.  Apply a little and buff it, repeating this until the whole part is coated. Once this is all done, reassemble the parts and you\u2019re finished.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The refinished frame after reassembly. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Gunsmith Special solution from Steel FX offers a way for the home gunsmith to apply a finish that resembles color case hardening without expensive equipment and special skills. It\u2019s a great way to finish a revolver kit project like this one. It\u2019s fairly inexpensive and pretty easy to apply. I\u2019m really happy with how mine came out. Until next time, Happy \u2018Smithing!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

***Buy and Sell on GunsAmerica!<\/a>***<\/h2>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Some time ago, I wrote an article about completing a black powder revolver kit from Dixie Gun Works. Upon completion, the frame still needed to be refinished as it was just bare steel. I mentioned that I hadn\u2019t yet decided on what finish to use on the frame, but wanted something that at least looked like color case hardening, as this is the finish the original Colts had<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":80,"featured_media":146142,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_specdata_upc":"","_specdata_placement":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[7,1052,285,72,284],"tags":[132,201,102,614,2590],"featured":[],"hunt365":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-146138","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-gunsamerica-authors","8":"category-chris-mace","9":"category-coatings-and-finishes","10":"category-columns-gunsmithing","11":"category-training-gunsmithing","12":"tag-buzz","13":"tag-diy","14":"tag-feature-articles","15":"tag-gunsmithing","16":"tag-gunsmithing-instruction"},"yoast_head":"\nA Way To "Color Case Harden" At Home<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A Way To "Color Case Harden" At Home - Chris Mace\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gunsamerica.com\/digest\/a-way-to-color-case-harden-at-home\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A Way To "Color Case Harden" At Home\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Some time ago, I wrote an article about completing a black powder revolver kit from Dixie Gun Works. 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